Ok, we have establised that Madam is here to work. Not me. She is on aassignemnt here that could take us anywhere between 3years or more or shorter. It depends.
So it means that, until I can establish a regular schedule of me traveling to and fro...KUL-LOS-KUL, I really have to put aside my profession as a wealth advisor for Prudential and Prudential BSN Takaful. So, what do I do? I mix around with a bunch of nice ladies, some government officers and professionals in Lagos.
Sometimes we do lunch (meeting ogas and chiefs), visit exhibitions (Motor exhibition) but my personal favourite is to go to the market all over Lagos. I love the one beside the Lekki-Epe Expressway. It is between the 4th and 5th roundabaout from the Toll gate (N150 for 4wd) in Victoria Island. It's the Lekki Market.
It opens around 9 in the morning (except on Environment day- clean up day, it opens after 10am) and all the way to evening, around 5-6 maybe. A few which I've got to know quite well would open till 7 or even wait until you arrive.
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| Lekki Arts and Crafts Market (note the roundabout) |
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| 4WD is definitley an advantage |
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| at the parking...overlooking the neighbourhood around it |
The first time we came here was during the Pre-Assignment visit in October/November 2014. We only saw the arts and crafts portion of the market, but in fact it is also a vegetable market. You get fresh local fruits and vege here.
So, one day I was invited by (I consider) the best person to show me around the place. It was Marijke (pronouced as: Maraika). She has been here a year plus and during our weekly makan-makan (eating) at her place, the name Lekki would crop up. I asked her when will be her next visit and asked if I could follow. A date was set, she came and fetch me away we went.
It was about half an hour drive but since this is Lagos, nothing is predictable. The traffic jams, queue at the pump station, weather etc cannot be predicted.
When we arrived, a boy came to her and started to follow us. Any of the things we buy, he would carry and send it to the car. He is the porter. You pay him at the end of your visit.. (about N400, depends on how big is the place and things you buy). I didn't get his name. He is deaf and mute. He has an elder brother, also with the same condition. Again, this is a standard practise here. Not because we are not locals, but it's their job and it is common in almost all wet market here to have boys carrying the buyers purchase. If you dont need them, just refuse them nicely.
Negotiated Compromise
Like a pro, she would go from one shop to the other. Looking at the wares...of course we went to the arts and crafts first. She gave comments on the crafts and the prices.
"...here in Nigeria, at these sort of market..'there are no price tags; although there is a price'. Prices are not fixed here, until both parties (seller and buyer) had arrived at by negotiated compromise." - Book on How to be a Nigerian
The art is like this. You know the fair price for a nice pair of shirt is N2000 or any number you fancy and ask for a lower price of N1000 (which I am sure the seller would prefer to jump into a cauldron of hot oil rather than giving you the price asked) and the seller knowing the price is N2000 asks for a N1000 more, so it becomes N3000. Seller and buyer hard at bargain, haggle and haggle and buyer threathened to leave the shop, whereby the seller and buyer agreed to a compromised price of N2000. It is a habit.
"A situation of normalcy is achieved without compromise is a suspect" - How To Be A Nigerian
Back to the market, it is separated into 3 distinct areas which are Arts and Crafts, Vege and the rest (Electrical items, plastic wares and anything in between). No fish or meat around, but there are sellers selling (duh) eggs sellers selling N800 for a whole crate of eggs (small or medium size).
Arts and Crafts
There are 4 blocks or more (single story) of small shops selling all manner of arts, crafts and textiles. Go nuts, but bargain. Madam is really good at this. So good that she would out manoeuvre the sellers here. Vietnamese and Indonesian sellers back in Benh Thanh and Bandung would cringe whenever she bargain. I would point to an object of interest, and she would bargain with gusto.
There were a lot of batik prints table cloth, dye printing shirts called adire, sets of buba and sekoto (shirt and long pants), also some brightly coloured print shirt which they say originates from Ghana. Also some paintings, wood carving, leather goods, handbags, beads and bangles; and tailors on standby to create any design you can dream of!
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| brightly coloured prints |
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| a very big shirt...forgot the exact name.. |
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| table cloth, shirt of various made and prints |
Price wise, some were expensive and some were so-so. Nothing is cheap until you bargain. And since the visit is to buy vege, it was low on priority to buy gifts. Maybe next time. The brown shirt you see in the picture above is N10,000 (RM 180 / USD 50).
Of course, hard bargain is needed. One seasoned shopper to the market told me... go low. How low? 50% lower than the price mentioned. This is true since I experineced it myself in Tarkwa Bay. A man came with a table cloth, which I think it was splendidly made...a combination of different cloth sewn together vertically. Each cloth itself were made using a vertical loom. A very small loom producing long cloth which you have to sew the cloth together to get one big piece of cloth. The asking price was N25,000 (RM 450/ USD 125) for an 8seater piece! At the end of bargain, managed to nail a very nice discount. It was nice that instead of using it, I would rather frame it and hang on the wall, like some very precious Persian rug.
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| table cloth for 6 seater, about N4,000 before bargain |
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| 'tie and dye' shirt |
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| paintings made by the local artist a4 size paint between N5,000 to N10,000 |
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| wood carvings. These pair (left most and right most) is sold at N120,000 before bargain, ok |
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| wood crafts |
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| The yellow danfo (van) scene is famous here...forgot the asking price (it was 6 digit price in Naira)... but BARGAIN, please |
As I was minding my own business, absorbing the surroundings and getting to know some of the people at the market suddenly I was greeted by a salam..Assalamu'alaikum (peace be upon you). It was by these two Hausa boys from Kano now residing in Lagos helping their father with the bead and semi precious stone business in Lekki.
I asked them that was a good guess (for knowing that I am a Muslim) but I was curious at the same time, and the elder one..I think it was Adam, pointing at my forehead.. I immideatly laugh! Hahahahaha... Anyway, they are in the bead business..and on my next visit will get to know them better.
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| two Hausa brothers from Kano |
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| beads galore!!! |
Tailor
There are quite a number of tailors around the market. Lots of Ankara design fabric (Ankara ~ African print) available. I can tell you that it is sold around N2,000 (RM 36/USD 10) for 6yards of fabric. I dont remember the width of the fabric, but it is enough for a XXXL size men like me to have a long pants and shirt made. Again, you need to bargain the price and usually ready within a few days time.
A word of caution though, according to a local I met said the fabrics are not of the original brand. The tailor would say it is of a certain big brand name in Nigeria, but I beg to differ. It was rough and quite hot when wear. But tell them what sort of fabric you need, they will try to get some smaples to show you. Better still if you have the fabric you bought elsewhere and have it done at the market.
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| Ankara design |
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| colourful designs available |
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| some of the more sombre colour |
The tailor also offers custom made hand bags and travelling bag covered with Ankara. All at a price of course. Shoes, belts, anything than you need to cover with cloth, they certainly can do for you.
All for a price...of course you bargain first! Remember, they expect you to bargain..it's their favourite past time. Give them the challenge...they enjoy it! hahahaha..In fact they would say "how much is your price?" "bargain please".
All for a price...of course you bargain first! Remember, they expect you to bargain..it's their favourite past time. Give them the challenge...they enjoy it! hahahaha..In fact they would say "how much is your price?" "bargain please".
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| book of various sizes |
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| travelling bag |
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| laptop bag |
Anyway, been here so many times meeting the tailor and coming up with design for male clothing line, first. The colours are riot! But the Naijas (Nigerians) wear them on daily basis and it looked nice on them. Bright colours make me happy. Some project are still in early stages...once I sort out delivery etc, will be able to do all out. Potential are amazing here..and they are very hardworking people. Next week will follow my tailor to other fabric markets around Lagos. I asked her..."you mean, there are more?"...she said "lots!". AWESOME!!!!
NEXT POSTING: VEGE AND THE REST!
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